![]() The only feasible route appeared to be its western ridge, but the sheer rock wall of the western ridge seemed a serious bottleneck. The face of the mountain seemed to be guarded by dangerously balanced seracs from the summit plateau. We had had a close look at Plateau Peak during our ascent of Saser Kangri IV in 2011 1. Though several attempts were made on Saser Kangri V or the Plateau Peak, both on the western approach from the South Phukpoche glacier as well as the eastern approach from the Sakang glacier, success eluded all previous attempts.Ĭamp 1 at South Phukpoche glacier and Plateau Peak. Saser Kangri I (7676 m), Saser Kangri II main (7518 m), Saser Kangri III (7495 m) and Saser Kangri IV (7410 m) had been ascended between 19. All these peaks offer significant technical mountaineering challenges on their steep ridges and faces. The Saser mountains have five peaks above 7000 m. The joy was slowly sinking in – the Kolkata section of the Himalayan Club had ascended the last unclimbed bastion of the Saser peaks via the sheer and broken west ridge of the Plateau Peak (7300 m). ![]() Fortunately, we were exhausted and welcomed this opportunity to rest after the last three days of sustained climbing, including twenty one hours from Camp 3 to the top of the Plateau Peak and back. A clime in which one can do little but to huddle up inside warm sleeping bags and wait for the sky to clear. A heavily overcast sky, poor distant visibility, absence of wind and incessant snow fall always portends the appearance of a spell of poor climbing weather. As I opened my tent’s flap and peered out, I was welcomed by the sight of a thick white blanket of snow covering the lateral moraines of the glacier. I remained huddled with my wife Chetna, inside a small arctic tent at Camp 1 on the South Phukpoche glacier, deep in the eastern Karakoram. Sahooįaith is taking the first step, even if you have not seen the whole staircase. Plateau Peak -The last unclimbed bastion of the Saser Massif Pradeep C.
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